Sailing Encore

Continuing on our 1998 Caribbean trip- We have a great time with my mom and dad in Trinidad, off of Venezuela. Then we hurry up the island chain to prep for the regattas we have entered. 

3-14-98

It is fun having Mom and Dad here. Yesterday we rented a car and Vernon drove on the left side of street with right sided wheel to Port of Spain. Very busy dirty city with bustling crowd downtown. Visited the local zoo. Today we took a very small ferry to “Fantasy Island”. It sounded great in guide books but it’s really an old rundown resort. We hiked to the caves on the island and saw bats. The heat and walk really exhausted Mom. But she says she is fine. The day is hot and we had a long wait for the boat ride back. But had a nice swim in the resort pool when we got back. Tomorrow we will visit some friends of mom’s that live here and have lunch with them.

3-16-98

The drive yesterday through the countryside of Trinidad was nice. It is a big big island that has it’s own economy and not dependent on tourists. And the visit with the local family mom knows through a good friend back home was interesting. He is a physician here and they have a daughter Kaylyn’s age.

Mom and Dad’s visit came to an end today. They flew out for Venezuela at 2pm. It was great having them visit, but I know the boat was hard for them. It has been hot and pretty cramped on board with all of us. After 4 days at the marina I feel pretty rested and ready to go north. I have provisioned, filled water tank, cleaned, sent post cards, and even found email with aol access at local café. Our new sail -roller jib- was delivered via FedEx today so all is in order except we listened to the weather forecast from Herb that said wait till next Thursday to head to Grenada from here due to such strong NORTH winds!! Can you believe it. Just when we are ready to head north the winds turn that way. We don’t have much time to wait because of Race Week. Have to get to BVI by 30^th and get the sails on board, get measured and ready. But we don’t really feel like beating into it AGAIN. Hopefully the winds will show us favor very soon.

3-18-98

We are now sitting at anchor at Prickly Bay at Grenada. Yesterday we cleared out of Trinidad marina, fueled and cleared customs (after they finally opened at 10:30am) Then we motored up to Scotsman Bay and it is very peaceful and calm. But lots of jelly fish. They look like the cabbage heads back in Texas. I slept poorly last night – we got up at 5:15 and started out to Grenada. Winds at 90-100 degrees and we beat up in very confused seas that got me and Steve sick. I took Phenergan but then got tired and started hallucinating! And it was so hot. Steve got burned and Kaylyn’s lips are burnt. She slept all day and feels bad. We arrived at Grenada about 3pm, showered and had dinner and I am off to bed at 7:30. On a good note our new roller jib looks good.

3-19-98

Cleared in at marina and rented car-Vernon is feeling brave after his training in Trinidad. We drove up west coast to Concord Falls where we hiked and got lost! But we were rescued by some local farmers working small plots along the river. They directed us back to the path to the falls. We collected lots of nutmeg, fallen fresh from the trees. It has a red web covering which is Mace. The locals collect the wild nutmeg and take it to the process factory. I am going to take mine home to share. I also got some nutmeg jam- very good! We made it to the top and swam in the cool water of the falls. Then back to car and up the coast and across the island through the windy roads with many potholes. The kids were getting out of school and we were much the novelty as they ran behind the jeep and hung on. They all had on their nice neat uniforms. You’d see their parents in rags by their shacks. And lots of shacks there were. Then suddenly one nice home. The scenery was beautiful. The views people pay millions for back home. My camera broke back in Trinidad so I haven’t been able to take pictures. We continued the drive to the rainforest and then a visit to Crater lake. But no more hiking. I had to ask directions several times to get us back to the anchorage area. The restaurant was closed so I had to cook. I guess I got spoiled when mom and dad were here. The kids and I played Uno and now it is off to sleep. Nice day.

3-20-98

We left Grenada about 9am and close reached up the coast with strong winds and gusts up to 38 mph coming from the valleys along the coastal mountain range. We were salt soaked within an hour and almost turned in to a bay to try another day. BUT no one was seasick, so we beat on across the channel past little islands to Carriacou. Arriving 3pm -too late to check out for tomorrow. We showered up and cleaned cockpit while Vernon cleaned the bottom. We could use a hard rain to get all the salt off. While we sailed we talked about where we would rather be- Sitting in my kitchen eating fresh cold watermelon just after a long hot shower was my pick!

3-21-98

Kaylyn and I took a minibus to Hillsborough to check out at Immigrations. This island is very dry right now and I really don’t care for the desolate look of it. We got some bread (the usual white long tasteless loaf) and some veggies from the Saturday market. Immigration was extra EC (money) due to it being Saturday and I didn’t have enough pre-printed crew lists but they actual let it be. When we got back to the boat we prepared to pick up anchor but the engine wouldn’t start – and we ran it this am just fine to charge the refer. It did not even turn over. The fan belt had slipped off and never was charging the batteries. V fixed the fan belt while I asked at other boats and ashore at mechanics to borrow a battery to jump it. NO use! So we brought the batteries and a converter and cord ashore to a restaurant to charge. I talked to owner and said we would buy drinks and food while we waited and he said he was going to charge us to plug in! But turns out they have 220 European and we have 110. A Swiss woman at another table overheard us and she offered her boat battery to jump start with. With much ado we got it to our boat and jumped it. When we were done we gave her a bottle of rum. Kaylyn and I tried to snorkel but her sunburn lip hurt too much. We hung around, showered and I made pizza for dinner. We will escape Carriacou tomorrow.

3-22-98

Left about 8 am and sailed (double reef, small amount of jib) up to Bequia. Very rough seas between islands. We picked up a mooring ball and boat taxied ashore but bookstore was closed. We had hoped to buy some scrimshaw. And yesterday Steve lost his pilot whale tooth necklace while bathing but there wasn’t any for sale today. So we had pizza (and a few too many beers for me) and returned to boat to nap. V is still asleep. We are going to get up early tomorrow and sail on. Decided against snorkeling due to Steve really can’t see without contacts (we ordered some to be delivered to BVI when we were in Trinidad) and Kaylyn’s lip still hurts too much. So pushing north.

3-23-98

We are anchored in Grand Anse Bay on Martinque. We left Bequia at 6am and sailed up and it was actually enjoyable!!! Beam reaching. Occasional tide vs waves problems. I really douched the boat and family a couple times when I was at helm. We were going to go to St. Lucia but decided to put in 3-4 more hours (HA! Hard to believe!) We are going to push on each day and hopefully return to Martinque after Antigua Race Week. I am running low on food- out of breads and meats and just a few fruit left. And the wash is building up so we will have to stop somewhere soon. (hard to believe we actually had a good time sailing today!)

3-24-98

Woke up at 4am to rain on the boat. Quickly closed hatches and snuggled back to sleep. Then up at 5:30am and away up the coast. Saw a beautiful sight as we were leaving the bay- A single fisherman blew on his conch shell to call another boat out into the bay- rowing. Then the boats all circled and dropped nets. Very colorful and old time. They could be using radios and motor boats but have probably been doing it that way for centuries. Then as we were slowly sailing by Martinique, the French coast guard vessel came up alongside and requested to board. Roll up jib, drop main and get fenders out. 3 guys board. One had very good English and the other two were very limited. They searched down below and remarked what a “barren” vessel I live on. One tried to teach Kaylyn and I French words and got a kick out of my small RadioShack translator. About an hour after boarding “Au revoir!” and we raise sails and motor sailed on up the whole lee coast. Once in the channel, the winds kicked up to 25 and seas up to 10 feet!! Only a few splashes since we were beam reaching. As we came to Dominque shore a large squall with 30 knot winds and rain moved with us. But we continued to sail and motor up the coast to a beautiful little harbor at Plymouth. (3 anchor sets due to being close to big coral heads) We (just Vernon and I) snorkeled in the pretty waters. I cooked up some of the last food stores. Need everything now-bread, ice, meat, fruit and veggies! We actually had a very nice day- No one has been seasick these last few days -thanks for scopolamine patches.

We will probably stop in Dehays, Guadalupe tomorrow and buy supplies and then keep taking long day sails till we reach St Thomas. And to think I had wanted to be a delivery skipper when I grew up… The kids are plodding away at homeschooling with lots of verbal cues from me. They are both peeling now from the horrible Trinidad to Grenada crossing where we were so sick. Kaylyn’s lip is really healing slowly. We have to be very cautious and assume the worst weather scenarios before we set sail. Then be happy if only a few major things happen with our luck. OR maybe cruising is like this for everyone!!

3-25-98

I actually thought to myself we were having fun today. (Probably jinxed it). We left pretty Plymouth bay about 7:30am then sailed along past the Saintes and up Guadalupe coast. Steve actually got a 13.1 on the knot meter as he surfed a wave. Had to motor, then sail, then motor in the lee of Guadalupe. Winds up to 30 knots at times. We arrived at Dehaises and I was setting the Danforth but the wind was very strong 28-30 gusts as we anchored and I didn’t have the bitter end tied. And the rope got away from me completely with rope burns on my ankle. Steve jumped in and grabbed the anchor line and Vernon motored up and tied off. Nothing ever goes easily. We went ashore and got supplies of bread, eggs and sodas. And we sat and had a drink -the restaurant was closed and won’t reopen till 7pm for dinner so back to the boat and cook again. We seem to be continuing on the battery problem. They aren’t holding a charge or recharging well when we run the engine. We are separating them now to ensure we don’t drain the starter battery. Hope to leave at first light to St. Kitts.

3-26-97

5 am: Vernon and I couldn’t sleep well. The house battery is so low we can’t turn on the instruments. Running the engine to try to increase voltage. Waiting by flashlight. And it is windy and cloudy and drizzling outside.

Well, we took off at 6 am from the bay and had trouble shortly thereafter. As we were raising the main and trying to put in a 3^rd reef I was at the helm and a quick wind gust caused an involuntary jibe and we ripped a 6 inch tear in the leach of the main and almost lost Steve overboard. Did lose one winch handle. We continued on with very blustery day (22-30 knots) but off the wind a bit and really scooted along. Lots of “10s” all day. Vernon got a 13.8 and a 14.7. Bypassed St. Kitts and Nevis and went to Statia. We are rolling again! Windy day but the sky was overcast so we didn’t cook to death and we missed the squalls. Tomorrow we shoot for the USVI!

3-27-98

We made it! Long long long day of sailing. Left Statia at 4:45am in the dark and motored past big tankers and prayed not to hit fish traps. By Saba as sun rose. And rode the waves with 20-25 knots breeze all day. I got a 14.7 too! Made it to Great Lamshur bay on the back side of St. John at 5:30pm. What a great sight it was. And only one other boat in anchorage. I would love to sit here for a week but we have got to get ready for the races and crew. I wish we hadn’t committed to BVI, Rolex and Antiqua Race Weeks. Oh well.