Sailing Encore

Been grappling with decisions lately, more decisions about this trip. Let me catch you up.

Last I posted we were up on the hard in the Charleston boatyard with nothing accomplished on the list of issues we went there for over a week before. Lots of work and no play in hot sticky conditions. Vernon and I had gotten projects done but they yard crew worked in typical slow boating fashion. They finally reinserted the bearings and rudder so we could be put back in the water on Thursday June 22nd, 11 days after haul out. BUT we still did not have auto pilot installed or any start on deck ‘soft spots’. We tied up at their dock on the Wando River with it’s fast flowing tide driven dirty brown water. At least we were back in the water and could run the cabin AC. Or not. The pump died. We went to West Marine and got a new pump and spent over a day and a half working on the lines and water flow and still it didn’t work well. We finally figured the new pump didn’t work… so back to West Marine. And by Monday we had cold air flowing.

You have heard that expression- ‘It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity’. It is true. Mexico was hot but we never used the AC. Here, after a few minutes working on something in the sun, the sweat is dripping down your face and back and under your boobies. And then you shower and start sweating again. How did people live here without AC? The 20 mile trips to West Marine (and we made about 10) at least provided a cool AC ride and I was always entertained by this sign.

Oh how I wanted to ride that cow. The auto pilot tech came on Saturday and installed but they forgot a key piece and would have to order Monday and let us know. Tuesday they finished the window install so at least the rain stopped dripping in. Yes it rained. Hot, hot sun, then thunderclouds and lots of rain. And also some pretty sunsets.

Across the river was this barge that I became captivated with. The morning sun would shine on the yellow and orange and I loved the purple outhouse! Wednesday the fiberglass guy came and said it would be a week to do the deck. Vernon and I looked at each other and said No, thank you. We can live with it for now. No matter how depressed I was becoming with my hot sticky life stuck on the Wando River, I still had it better than the little boat tied up next to us. It was 27 feet with few amenities and two adults and two dogs. The poor dogs just laid under the tarp all day on deck. Thursday the auto pilot guy brought and installed the remaining piece. We paid our bill – we spent so much they threw in two boatyard crew shirts and hats! And with a fair forecast for heading north around cape Hatteras, we decided to take off at first light Friday morning June 30th – 19 days after arriving at the boatyard.

We woke up early and went to push off from the dock but the outgoing tide was pushing us swiftly, hard against it. Lots of yelling and pushing and engine thrusts and we are clear (I just missed the hitting the dog boat). But a guy on the dock yells out that we left a fender, we go back to retrieve it and sure as sh*t the current grabs the boat and slams the bow into the dock.   We continue down river  and assess the damage and figure that instead of heading out to sea we need to stop and effect repairs.  We now own one very expensive fender. We motor down to Charleston and anchor and drop the dinghy in the water during a nice wet squall, of course. Vernon makes up the epoxy adhesive, plops it on the damage and we wait for it to cure. Once the rain is clear he brings up a hair dryer to speed the setting. 3 hours later we are off. We say good bye to Charleston, South Carolina and exit toward the channel and out to sea to find the waves are choppy and fast and rough. And the wind does not settle down like the weather prediction. And it is dead behind as we head north east up the coast. So we end up motoring with exhaust fumes coming back at me thru the night. When you did try to nap, you would be jolted from sleep as the boat hit a wave. The auto pilot worked though! And I had a little stow away on board during my watch. the video is dark but push play and listen… “my turn on watch, there is a little wind, a little sprinkling rain and a little cricket friend by the fuel cans”

The next morning the wind continues to blow and the ride continues bumpy, slamming me about as I try to move in the cockpit.

Vernon comes up from below and says: ” I’m ready to quit. This is not fun. We have been miserable more than enjoying it. We have spent more than we planned at this point and the boat still needs work. We can’t catch a break. The weather forecasts are wrong. It is hot and sticky and the wind is never in the right direction to sail. We sailed, actually sailed the boat, more when we both worked full time! I ask you: Are you having fun? Well….”

No, I am not. I keep telling myself ‘it is what it is’, ‘it will be better tomorrow or when we get _____(fill in the blank)’. But it is far more cons than pros. I can not imagine beating like this for another whole day and night around Hatteras (which is known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic) and up the  outer banks. I have taken nausea meds but this is so bumpy I get slammed trying to climb about the cockpit. No, I am not having fun. But I am too tired to try to make a decision. With the weather getting worse and wave sets not improving, we decide to turn left and go into Beaufort, North Carolina. We get to the dock about noon, tie up, plug in the electric and turn the on AC. And go to bed.

We spend 3 days at the Beaufort Marina waiting for the forecast to change and settle down so we can sail around Cape Hatteras. We fix some things, repack the “ditch bag”, and get some good sleep.

It is 4th of July weekend and we spend time walking the quaint waterfront town and it’s historic streets. The summer crowds are here enjoying the beach and their family vacations. Vernon and I sit down and go over charts and calendars to figure out what is next. Do we venture north, turn back south, or quit? What next? Nothing like a picnic dinghy ride around the harbor and a rainbow to help you put things in perspective.

We decide to go North. And get the family gathered to enjoy some time together. We will head to Norfolk, Virginia and meet up with Steve, Sarah and my granddaughters. Then head up to Washington DC where Kaylyn and Drew will fly in. We will all be together for a few days. This makes me happy. The weather looks good to leave Beaufort and round Hatteras. So July 4th we head out.  We actually have to sail south for 20 miles to round Lookout Shoals.  Once again the water is choppy but we have a nice vigorous sail for about 3 hours. Catching a squall while I am at the helm.

We turn the corner and start heading northeast.  Around 6pm we come to the Light House marking Diamond Shoals and Cape Hatteras and as we fall off heading due north the waves quiet down and the wind settles. We motor sail along the outer banks watching the firework displays along the coast. I have gone to firework displays on the 4th of July as long as I can remember. Never missing. And this year I didn’t either!

The night goes by swiftly with easy watches and sleep. And come morning we are off the entrance to the Chesapeake.

We motor for 3 more hours up into the branch by Norfolk. Passing over the tunnel bridges and by the huge Naval Shipyard and to Ocean Yacht Marina.

Here we will stay for a bit, exploring the area before meeting up with my loved ones.

Cheers.