Sailing Encore

Wednesday February 15, 2017.

We check out the tourista options and decide to take a tour up into the Sierra Madre Mountains to the silver mining town of San Sebastian de Oeste. We make the wise move not to take the local bus up (3 hour) but to travel in style in a Mercedes Tour van with Holiday Tours. They even had seat belts! And Vernon insisted we wear them.

We make the 5000 foot climb up the mountains in comfort. The tour guide, Jorge, points out all kinds of interesting facts and I will share all that I remember with you. (I will designate with * if I learned it from Jorge). Jorge is the 2^nd most popular name in Mexico- Jose is number one*.We pass by farming communities as we go through the Banderas Valley. The land originally was farmed by the Montgomery Fruit Company (U.S.) but after 1931 they were kicked out. But before Montgomery left he divided up all the land and gave it to the workers so the government couldn’t have it. It is still farmed by their great great grandchildren*. The farmers grow corn, bananas, chilis, beans, mangos, watermelon, coconuts, avocados, papayas, jicama and bread fruit (also known as Jack fruit). We stop at a road side stand to taste some of it.

Bread fruit is a sticky pain to cut up and for being so large there is little edible fruit in it and it doesn’t taste that good. Slightly like mango or cantaloupe but both of those taste better and are easier to eat. (no * since this is my opinion).

We start to climb up the windy mountain road and Jorge points out that the trip from Puerto Vallarta to San Sebastian used to take 7 hours- the road was narrow and hugged every mountain curve and a single lane in some sections. Guys with walkie- talkies let the single direction traffic through and it took over 3 hours to pass through that area.* And there was another area that hugged a river gorge that finally got a long promised bridge put in- that cut off 2 hours*. We make a stop at the bridge to stretch our legs and taste fresh grilled tortillas from the wood burning stove– see Vernon in back ground enjoying his second one.

It is here that I start to feel cold. We brought along warm tops because they said it might be cooler in the mountains. So I slip my jacket on over my shirt and long sleeve blouse. And stand in the sunshine while Vernon gets a third tortilla. No Pacifico to go with it. BUT the next stop – San Sebastian Tequila distillery. Founded by Mama Lucia generations ago, one her young great grandsons is working the showroom selling the product. Jorge explains the tequila history and distilling process. Ready to learn? Indigenous peoples of Mexico had long made a drink, similar to beer, from the sap of the Agave cactus called pulque. This is still drunk in some of the more remote areas of highland Mexico.  After the conquistador conquest, the Spaniards began to run out of their own brandy and they started distilling a liquor made from the actual plant of the Blue Agave Cactus. Thus producing one of North America’s first indigenous distilled spirits. Only five Mexican states have the right to produce tequila-Jalisco (where the town of Tequila is located), Guanajuato, Michaoacan, Nayarit and Tamaulipas*.

After 8 years, the root or core is harvested (all the long leaves removed) and then chopped and roasted and fermented and distilled twice. Some is aged, even up to 3 years*

Some is even flavored- coffee, walnut, and vanilla. And we try them all.

Since I am cold and I figure tequila will warm me up. I have several shots. Salud!

We stumble back into the van and head back up the mountain. I realize I am not getting warmer but the next stop is at a coffee farm! This is Mama Mary’s  Coffee farm. (those Mexican grandmas were quite the entrepreneurs) She founded it long ago. Here is her picture with 6 of her 21 children*. That woman was busy. Jorge shows us the family production. Coffee plants like shade so the family planted lots of fruit trees that shade the lower coffee plants. Including one called Limo that Jorge cuts up and has us taste.Not a lemon, not a lime. More like a dull grapefruit. Ugh. Glad it at least produced shade for the red berry coffee bean fruit.

The coffee beans smell so good roasting. And we get to taste and buy some of course. Dark roast for me!

Back on the bus. I am still cold. And starting to shiver, so Vernon gives me his sweatshirt and I layer that on there. So fruit, tortillas, tequila and coffee. Next stop – the town of San Sebastian. San Sebastian was founded in 1605 as a Silver mining town. And at its height of production had over 30,000 living in the area. Now there are less than 800 population*. First stop lunch at a very quaint Mexican restaurant. A young lady serves us beans, fresh warm tortillas, shredded beef Machaca and Chicken Mole. Have you ever had good Mole sauce? It is a dark thick gravy that can contain over 20 ingredients but there is usually chili peppers, seeds, cilantro, plantains, garlic, onions, tomato, cinnamon and chocolate. It is that hint of cinnamon and chocolate that have made this version so good. Vernon won’t try it, he is busy eating the fresh tortillas, so I eat his too. After we eat, I go outside and stand in the sun to try to warm up.

We have an hour to explore the beautiful town of San Sebastian. There is a church, town square, quaint shops and a hotel (that I guess lost a lot of overnight business once the road and bridge improved).There is still some mining action and a shop where they work with silver to make jewelry so Vernon and I hike out to find it. After about 20 minutes we realize we are lost, so we retrace our path back to the village square. I let Vernon take some artsy-fartsy pictures of walls since I am starting to shake from my chills.

My neck and shoulders ache. Hmm. Beginning to think this is something a bit more than a change to cool mountain air. I feel tired and sore so I rest at a bench in the sun in town. A local dog comes up and keeps me company. Soon it is time to get back on the bus and head down the mountain. Vernon walks with to the bus where I take some ibuprofen and climb back into my seat. For the ride home most of the group of 10 are sleeping. I am shaking in my seat. All I can think about is a very hot Jacuzzi submersion. We arrive back at the boat and I climb into bed. It is 5pm and I am starting to really shake with the chills. My eye balls sting, I have a headache, my muscles ache all over. I am hot with fever. Vernon says I have the Zika virus since we got bit by some bugs (‘no-see-ums’) at the Botanical Gardens last week. Since I am not pregnant, no worries, but how long is this going to last? I take more drugs. And drink some water. Huddling in the fetal position under layers of clothes and blankets, I rock and occasionally moan (the moaning always makes me feel a bit better). Vernon rubs my back and I ask him to read me a story (HaHa- I wish) I drift in and out of sleep. This goes on till about 3 am. Fever breaks, I throw off all the blankets and fall deep asleep. At 8am I am up and feel better- just sore like an intense workout, done poorly. Just the regular Flu. And at least no intestinal issues.

Jorge Quiz:

1. How many children did Mama Mary (the coffee grower) have?                                                          a)   Just one – Jesus                   b)   21                          c)   6 just like the picture

2. True or False: Tequila is distilled liquor from fermented Blue Agave cactus in                                         Baja Sur, Mexico.

3. What food does Vernon really like?                                                                                                               a) Limo                      b) Chicken Mole                  c) Fresh Tortillas

4. Terri had:                                                                                                                                                           a) Too much Tequila     b) Too many weird foods in one day   c) the Flu      d) All of the above